DAY 13---MANAUS

 

        We dropped anchor in the Rio Negro at 8:30.  74 degrees with light rain which is to continue all day.  More about my plans for the day below.  Actually, weather improved some mid afternoon and just overcast skies.

Background Info

        Manaus, the “Paris of the Jungle”, is the capital of Brazil’s state of Amazonas.  It is by far the largest and most populous city in the Amazon rainforest with a population of over 2.5 million.  The Solimoes and Negro rivers meet here in Manaus and join to form the Amazon River.  As you will see in my photos, many river boats are loading both supplies and people that will be taken on up to smaller villages along the tributaries of the river.  I can only imagine what living conditions are like further up river.     

        The colonization of Manaus began back in 1499 when the Spanish discovered the mouth of the Amazon River.  The Portuguese built a fort here in the mid 1600’s and it functioned for more than 100 years.  In the late 1800’s Manaus was at the center of the Amazon’s rubber boom.  The rubber barons were very rich and spent their money on extravagant things.  One was the “Teatro Amazonas” or now called the Amazonas Opera House.  Now fully restored, it was inaugurated in 1896 and seats 700.  It was constructed of bricks brought from Europe, French glass, and Italian marble.  It is truly beautiful!!

        All good things must and did come to an end when some British citizens smuggled out some rubber tree seeds.  The seeds were planted in Malaysia in the early 1900’s and within a few years rubber was being produced less expensively there.  Manaus’s rubber industry died.
        The Brazilian government made Manaus a duty free zone which stimulated the economy and attracted tourism.  Today it is a center for ecotourism and biology tours.  Also important to today’s economy is Brazil nuts, oil refining, soap manufacturing, electronics, and chemical industries.
        The Port of Manaus is located right downtown on the banks of the Negro River.  It is the commercial center for ocean going shipping.  This is as far up river as these ships can go.  The river boats I mentioned earlier take supplies up river (and bring goods back down river) from here.  This is bustling port with lots of action.

LAST EVENING

         Prior to this afternoon we saw hardly any sign of human life on the river.  As we get nearer to Manaus we are seeing more houses and farms.  One had quite a few cows.  There are NO roads out here.  Only way to get supplies or travel is via small boats.

        We passed this oil tanker on its way to Manaus also.  We also saw the Viking cruise ship anchored at Parintins.  We will be stopping there on the 10th (day after we leave Manaus).

        I wanted to show you this photo of the ship's navigation on tv to show how the river is not straight and all the water from small rivers and streams flow into it.

        As usual cocktails in Stars Lounge with Jane and Marcia.  I had a couple Grey Goose martinis for a change.  It amazes me what the waitresses can carry from the galley.  We enjoyed roasted turkey, stuffing, sweet potato and peas after a wedge salad.  

        I skipped dessert and left the dining room early.  Headed to the suite and started to watch a movie but fell asleep at 9:00.  Our clocks moved back one hour last night so extra sleep.  Rebecca, Jane, and Marcia went up to Galileo Lounge after dinner.  None of us went to the magicians show again.

TODAY

        I woke up at 4am but did not get up until 7:00.  I wanted to be up to get some photos as we approached Manaus.

                                          Passed by this oil refinery with a tanker ship tied up.

        Downtown area where we normally dock.  So convenient for tours and independent exploring of the city.  Not this time!!  Anchored in the Rio Negro. 

        A pilot boat came out and picked up our two river pilots this morning.  We'll have two more come on board tomorrow before we sail again at 4pm.

                                                  All kinds of debris flowing down the river.

        Barge coming along side and will be tied up.  People will walk off the ship and across it to boats for going ashore.

        This shows how people can walk off gangway, across the barge, then board boats that will take them to the cruise terminal.  Tour buses will be waiting there for them.

               Larger boats had to go to other side of the ship where a gangway was set up.

                                     I described this Opera House/Theater in background info.

                                                                                Replica

        Located behind the Theater Amazonas is The Palace of Justice was completed in 1900.  It is one of the main examples of classical architecture from the golden age of rubber.

        Most interesting is all the 3 deck river boats that load on supplies and people to take to communities further up the Amazon where ships cannot go.

                                                             Quite a load this guy has.

        This is the Rio Negro Bridge.  It is the 4th longest bridge in Brazil at 11,795 feet long.  It links Manaus with the small town of Iranduba.

        We requested a scales on the first day of the cruise.  Scales are only accurate when in port and the ship is not moving.  Rebecca reports she has not gained any weight but she has a LOT of will power when it comes to dining.  I weighed for the first time today and have gained 4 pounds.  But I have been eating too much at lunch time on this cruise.  So today we went down to Compass Rose for lunch and I had this Caesar salad with 5 lemon pepper grilled shrimp and 5 anchovies.

        Then after lunch I went up and did 2 miles/45 minutes on the treadmill.  First time I have been on a treadmill in months due to my painful back.  Now I will wait and see how the back reacts to my exercise.  More about that on Monday.

        Rebecca is reading another book this afternoon.  I watched The Treasure of the Sierra Madre" with Humphry Bogart.  Oldie but goodie!

        This evening at 5:30 a local group, "Celdo Braga", with do their unique Amazonian music which brings to life the nocturnal sounds of the rain forest in the theater.  After the show we will hit the Stars Lounge for cocktails.  

        Our long time friend from LA, Marge Goddard, will be joining us and Jane for dinner at 7pm in Compass Rose.  There is a Brazilian buffet dinner up in La Veranda starting at 6:30 but we won't be attending.  Can't beat Compass Rose and tonight on the appetizer menu is our favorite, black mussels in white wine, shallots, garlic, & tomatoes.  Baguette to soak up the sauce.

        No show tonight.  At 9:00 they are showing a documentary film, "Mythical Roads to the Amazon:.

Hoping the weather will be better here tomorrow so I might pop into town.

 

DAY 12---BOCA DA VALERIA

  

        Our position today is shown in lower left corner and where we were yesterday in lower right corner.  They dropped anchor at 6:20 this morning and it makes quite a racket.  It's 84 degrees and humid this morning.

Background Info

        This small village is on the banks of the Valeria River where it flows into the Amazon.  We viewed another “meeting of the waters” where clear water from the Valeria flows into the dirty Amazon.  This village is about as primitive as it gets.  There are only about 100 Caboclo Indian people living in the village but many more from nearby villages show up when a cruise ship like Regent stops.
        I tendered ashore again and was on lookout for pink dolphins which are only found in the Amazon River.  Once ashore I was immediately mobbed by kids.  The kids know that passengers will be bringing little gifts for them so they mob you.  I usually bring the chocolates we get every night on our bed but the ship is now discouraging that due to litter of the wrappers.  Many passengers did however.  Regent supports the small one room school here so crew members bring ashore boxes of supplies for their little school.  It is normal for a boy or girl to “adopt” you.  They hold your hand and walk with you all the time you are there.  The village has no roads, sidewalks, or anything sanitary.  There is the small school, a little church, and a hut to buy a beer or soda.  The women were trying to sell us little handicrafts they had made.  The local men did have small power boats and would take you for an hour tour up the Valeria River for $5.

LAST EVENING

        A few days ago Kasia sang "Tennessee Waltz" and we danced to it.  I usually do one "token" dance per cruise.  Last evening Kasia came over and sang it to Rebecca.

        We headed up to Sette Mari at 6:45 to meet Donald (F&B Director) for an Italian dinner.

                                                              Jessee was our sommelier.

        Donald phoned Donovan, the head sommelier, and had him bring up this special bottle of wine.  WOW!  It was soooo good.

                                            They bring all these to the table before we order.

                                                          Rebecca had this veal limone.

Of course, I had this huge veal parmesan.  Again I could only eat half of it.  Very yummy however.

                                              At 9:15 there was the Liar's Club in the theater..

        The "liars" on stage were the 3 lecturers and the magician.  One of the words they are giving the definition to is on the screen.  

TODAY

                         The village is in there somewhere.  We visited this village in 2012 & 2016.

       At 9:00 is boarded a tender for a ride to the small village.  They would not let me drive!

                   Unfortunately, I had to wait quite a while until the tender was full.  Hot in it.

        Nothing had changed since our last visit 9 years ago except the kids grew up but there were more to replace them now.  They were lined up and you had to walk through them.  They all tried to grab my hand but I did not hold theirs.  If I had they would follow me everywhere I went.

                                                                One room school.

          Many of the kids had sloths on poles or in their arms.  Sloths hang upside down.

                                                                    The small church

        Lots of men wanted to take you up the river in a small boat for an hour ride.  $5 per person.  I had done this so not today.  

        Ladies were selling handicrafts.  If you buy something made of wood, the ship would take it when you went back on board.  They would fumigate it to kill any bugs.  They would return it to you when you disembarked back in Miami.

                          Some kids had small lizard in their hand but this guy had a big one.

                                                                           Big sloth

                                                                           Monkey

                White bird sitting in the top of this.  Unfortunately, no pink dolphins were spotted.

        It was very hot and humid so took my photos and jumped on a tender back to the Navigator.  Just off for an hour.

        While we were having lunch it came a hard rain shower.  Just lasted about 15 minutes but now it will be a muddy mess ashore.  Glad I went this morning.  

        We are sailing again at 3pm.  Now back on schedule and will be docking at Manaus by 9am tomorrow.  I have a 6 hour tour scheduled at 9:30.  We will be overnighting in Manaus.

        Here is tonight's Compass Rose menu.  Cocktails in Stars Lounge followed by dinner here.  The magician has a second show tonight.  I may try it again.